Archive: Crónica

• Crónicas by Margarita García Robayo

  Written by Margarita García Robayo
  Translated from the Spanish by Alicia Maria Meier

  Colombia | Crónica | Spanish

  July, 2017

  Translator's Note:

  
  

  The first time I visited Buenos Aires, I was sixteen years old. It was only the second time I'd ever left the States–the first to a country that was not English-speaking–and my experience was meticulously mapped. There were tango shows and treks through the technicolor alleys of La Boca. There were orange trees and street markets and performances at the Teatro Colón. There were handsome waiters not so much older than I was who served me steak, and handsome gauchos who put on the traditional corrida de sortija displays for us—on horseback, armed with thin jousting poles, they'd attempt to pierce the key rings strung with ribbons of white and baby blue that were mounted on an archway overhead. When they speared one, they'd single one of us from the crowd and offer it with a kiss as a souvenir.

  This Buenos Aires was the one that lived for many years inside my mind. I was not young or silly or inexperienced enough, even then, that it was lost on me that this had all been carefully curated for an outsider, and yet memories of it still ached with that visceral pang of romance that memories of that age do.

  Margarita García Robayo's collection Orquídeas ("Orchids"), on the other hand, offers an entirely different Buenos Aires: one that lives on scaffolds and in backroom bars, at late-night parties and among transgender prostitutes, on mosquito-ridden patios and in butcher shops–in the quotidian, in the ephemeral, as crónicas do. Published daily in newspapers and magazines around the world—but especially in Latin America—this literary genre of short prose may range from witty commentary to melancholic remembrance to fiery political satire. What the best crónicas unfailingly share, however, is that they live in a dark, amorphous space where observance may be faulty, memories may be deliberately amended, character is often irrelevant, tragedy and comedy may coexist, and the reader never quite knows where they stand.

  Assembled together between covers like slides in a carousel, García Robayo's crónicas make Buenos Aires begin to look a lot like Brooklyn, or like anywhere, where mundane and absurd observances spin through our heads constantly each day and quickly disappear. And yet the author treats each with such indelible specificity, with such tenderness and disdain, that immersed in each page-long moment, the reader knows it could never have occurred anywhere else but in García Robayo's city, in her world. And so I struggled to translate this book, at first. The words were there but the spirit wasn't. I still wanted the technicolor alleys, the handsome waiters. Never before as a translator have I so struggled to find an author's voice.

  In November 2016, two days after the election of Donald Trump, I returned to Buenos Aires. My rose-colored glasses were gone, my guard was down, I was alone, and for a week I spoke to almost no one except shopkeepers and taxi drivers to whom I would struggle to explain the Electoral College in Spanish. I had planned to return to the street fairs, to see some tango, to vacation. Instead, for a week, I walked. From Villa Crespo to San Telmo, Nuñez to the Recoleta, Palermo Soho to the Centro, I walked and walked and there it was: García Robayo's Buenos Aires, in the punk-rock art students and their rustling sketchbooks, in the sex shops in the Retiro, in the tourist traffic across the footbridges over the brown water of the Río Dique, as in the life of any great city seen through a cronista's eyes.  I now prefer this version, this vision, the one García Robayo offers, the one glimpsed at in this selection, the one I finally found in her voice upon returning. A Buenos Aires uglier, more pathetic, truer and therefore somehow ever more romantic than the one I had once known.

  - Alicia Maria Meier

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